The largest island in the Ionian, Cephalonia is a land of contrasts. There are bare rocky slopes alternating with valleys of pine forests composed of a local fir tree rare in other places. The island has been inhabited since ancient times, when it was part of Odysseus' kingdom. Well preserved ruins have been saved in various parts of the island, where four very important cities were situated.

Today, Cephalonia is a touristically developing island, although not at the same scale as Corfu or Zakynthos. Th sea around Cephalonia, especially the west coast is-along with the Sporades group- one of the few remaining habitats for the Mediterranean monk seal. The island also offers nesting ground to the carreta-carreta turtle.

The main port is the town of Sami, but there are other ports, as well. Due to the big size of the island and the mountainous morphology, travelling from one town to the other might prove a little tiring and time consuming, while sailing around can be sheer pleasure.

The island's capital -and one of the ports- is Argostoli, a modern but very pleasant city. In 1953 it was destroyed by the earthquake which destroyed almost all the towns on the island, and this is the reason why we hardly find traditional towns or villages in the area. In Argostoli there is a very interesting Archaelogical museum, as well as a cultural museum where you can see pictures of the town before the earthquake. There are many restaurants with good food, and vivid nightlife around the central square.

Directly across the gulf from Argostoli is the town and secondary port of Lixouri. It, too, was destroyed by the earthquake and has not much to show, but there are many remarkable beaches around it.

Sami, the main port on the east coast just opposite Ithaki, did not escape the earthquake, either, but offers a good starting point to explore this side of the island.

There are hundreds of other settlements on Cephalonia, but the only one not devastated by the earthquake is Fiskardo. It is a delightful village, highly touristic and especially popular with yachts, due to the safe port. The picturesque 19th century houses are built on the foot of pine hills and give us an idea of what the rest of the island looked like before 1953.

There are many things to see on the island. Just for starters, don't miss the view from the castle at Assos, a village which did not escape the fate of destruction, but has been very carefully restored. The village is built astride the isthmus of the peninsula of the same name. On your left, spread out beneath your feet, lies the enchanting turquoise bay of Myrtos renowned for the afternoon sun and soft white sand. The view from the road that passes above Myrtos beach is breath-taking.

You can also go up to the top of Mt. Enos (1.628 meters above sea level). Its slopes are covered with tall, cedar-like fir trees with very dark leaves, and if you're lucky, you may run into one of the wild ponies that live there, but are unfortunately in danger of extinction.

On other parts of the island you'll run into groves filled with olive or orange trees and hillsides studded with grapevines; breathtaking golden beaches and deep coves, rugged rocky shores or famous caves.

The cave at Mellssani, about 3 kms from Sami, is actually a partially covered subterranean lake. When the sun is directly overhead, its rays strike the ultramarine water, shattering into a myriad phantasmagorlcal colours. Cave Drogarati, on the other hand, is known for its unusual stalagmites.

In the area of Lassi, 1,5 kilometres from Argostoli, are the famous Katavothres (swallow-holes), a rare geological phenomenon. Here sea water enters openings in the rock and "disappears". Only recently were scientists able to trace it; they found that it travels northeast through underground all the way across the island finally to emerge at Melissani, near the village of Karavomilos, opposite Sami. (In the past water poured in at such a rate it was used to power two enormous sea mills.)

The island is a paradise for swimmers, as it has splendid beaches. Makrys and Platys Gialos are two of the nicest with golden sand, very close to Argostoli, thus very crowded. Near Lixouri, Xi beach with red sand and a striking rocky landscape, Petani beach on the west coast with beauty similar to that of Myrtos, Lourdata, Katelios and Skala on the south, the pebbled beaches of Poros, Agia Evfimia and Fiskardo.

Don't forget to taste the local specialities meat pie and skordalia (garlic dip that accompanies fish), and wash them down with the island's famous Robola wine.

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