Zakynthos is the southernmost of the Ionian islands. Anyone who came to this island fell under its spell. No one who has been here can forget the emerald green of its sea, its pine-studded mountains, its musical people and their hospitality.

The first thing to welcome you, as soon as you step off your boat, is the town of Zakynthos. Though it lost all but three of its buildings in the earthquake of 1953, the town has been meticulously reconstructed and its former layout has been faithfully preserved.

Zakynthos today has pleasantly arcaded wide streets, spacious squares, imposing buildings and cheerful houses. The Museum of Post-Byzantine Art on Solomos Square contains treasures salvaged from the island's historic churches. In Zakynthos the streets are lined with small cafes and shops selling folk art.

Don't leave before tasting the famous Zakynthos "mandolato" or nougat; it's a real treat. The town is watched over by the Venetian fortress on the hill above. Only the gate, outer walls and battlements still stand. But from this vantage point a spectacular view can be had of the harbour, fertile inland plain and beaches as far as the eye can see.

Zakynthos is almost triangular in shape, with two green mountainous promontories extending into the sea to form the huge bay of Laganas. There are more pine-covered mountains and hills in the north, but the centre is gentle and lush, richly planted with currant vines, olive trees, almonds and seasonal vegetables. There are dozens of beaches to choose from, sandy and sheltered with invitingly sparkling water. Flowers of every kind fill every available space, filling the air with the scent that so enraptured visitors.

With a sunny climate most of the year and good roads to facilitate exploring, Zakynthos lends itself to holiday-making in spring and fall as well as summer. Some of the best known summer resorts are Argassi, Alikes, Pianos, Tsilivi, Vassilikos, Gerakas and Porto Roma, while Laganas is the most famous of all. Its long beach and wide range of facilities attract thousands of tourists from May through September.

At Laganas, Vassilikos and Gerakas, the endangered sea turtle Caretta-caretta also comes to lay her eggs, so make sure that you stick to the rules that are written on big signs on these beaches. The turtles also nest on the nearby islet Marathonisi (also known as the "turtle island"). Marathonisi has a very nice sandy beach, but visitors are not allowed to stay after sunset, so as not to disturb the turtles.

Don't miss Volimes or Skinarl at the tip of the island. Volimes has a wonderful Venetian tower and lovely old churches with frescoes dating to the 12th and 14th centuries, while Skinari is where the famous Blue Caves are located.

Inside the caves, the reflection of the sun's rays on the water creates an unbelievable array of blue and silver tones of a dreamlike beauty.

Further south is the cave of Xingia, where there is a spring of sulphurous water that bubbles up white, clouding the sea up to 500 metres from shore. On the same coast you will find the unbelievable beach of the ship-wreck (Navagio), one of the most photographed beaches in the world.

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